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SJSato last won the day on March 2 2016

SJSato had the most liked content!

About SJSato

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  1. Thanks for the tutorial. I'm going to try it out this weekend.
  2. Here is an in depth review I came across on the the Formlabs Form 2 SLA printer. It has great resolution however its small build volume may limit its practical use to fabricate full size models. Link to review
  3. Yes, you are correct on Meshmixer and large files. So how would you compare Osirix vs. 3Dslicer. Pros and cons?
  4. Another great tutorial Mike! Just wondering why you just didn't use Meshmixer to eliminate the loose islands?
  5. The largest folder should have your DICOM files. You should be able to see the .dicom or .dcm extension. I would also transfer that folder to your hard drive. 608 files is a lot of data. 3d Slicer may be having problems if you are trying to transfer it directly from your CD.
  6. I reprinted the Splenic artery, lowering the print temperature from 240C to 230C, decreasing print speed from 40mm/sec to 30mm/sec and increasing layer height from .12mm to .2mm. The model is definitely more translucent, probably 20% improvement.
  7. Wetting does not seem to increase the transparency. I am going to try to fiddle with the printer settings. This is where the black art of printing takes over. Changing the print speed, the use of the fan, layer height, and print temperature will change the look of the material. I think to get a clear model I really need a resin printer.
  8. Here is my print of Dr. Mike's splenic artery aneurysms model. I used my Ultimaker 2 and Colorfabb XT clear filament. Print time was 7 hours. The model came out more of a milky translucent color than clear but I imagine you would still be able to see a catheter snaking through. The print isn't as refined as Dr. Mike's Shapeways model, but for a consumer level printer, not too bad! Here is the print with the support structure in place. The Cura program the Ultimaker uses to slice the model seems to generate nice, easily removable support. I just used the generic settings. I spent around 10 minutes cleaning up the model. As far as I can tell, the interior walls of the artery printed out fairly smooth. I was a little concerned because no support could be used for the interior.
  9. Dr. Mike, mainly I like to print biomedical models for personal interest and curiosity. I am trying to get more adept at segmenting out my own models from scans but I'm still on the upward slope of learning. At this point, it is just a geeky hobby.
  10. Here is the ugly underbelly of the print. With some sanding and finishing I could get it a bit smoother. When I paint models I use a spray primer with a filler. That would also eliminate small defects and the striations from the printing. Considering the complexity of the model and the limitations of my printer it came out better than expected. 3D printer companies are working on dual head printers that will extrude the support material in dissoluble material which may ease a lot of the problems of printing overhangs. Dual head printing is still a bit buggy however and real hasn't made it mainstream, at least in the hobby level printers. Ultimaker has abandoned their attempt to add dual heads to their line of printers.
  11. I used the Ultimaker's Cura software to generate the support structure and there was quite a bit of support , maybe a little overkill. It came off fairly easily but quite a bit rougher than the unsupported surfaces. I'll post a picture of the underside when I get back to the lab.
  12. Had some time over Memorial Day weekend so I downloaded Dr. Mike's Lumbar Spine model. Believe it or not, this was a 65 hour print on my Ultimaker 2! All in all, the print came out pretty well. I have a web cam watching over the printer and can monitor progress over my iPhone. I can also shut down the printer remotely if the printer goes haywire.
  13. I have been using the Ultimaker 2 for about a year now and am very happy with the print quality. I have not used a Form 1+ but have seen prints and they are very high resolution. My original printer was a B2 Creator which, like the Form 1, is also a SLA printer. The problems I had with the B2 was: 1. small build volume 2. the resin is messy to use 3. print cost is higher than filament printers 4. the prints are somewhat fragile. I eventually sold my B2 to a jeweler. SLA printers are perfect for making jewelry patterns since the resin burns out cleanly and the high resolution allows for very nice detailed patterns of small objects. I looked around for a while for a new printer and narrowed my search to printers with the largest print volume with the best quality print. That led to the Makerbot Replicator II or the Ultimaker 2. I chose the Ultimaker 2 because it had a slightly bigger build area. I am happy with its performance. It is easy to set up and has been trouble free. Ultimaker recently released their next gen printer with even a bigger print volume! One note on resolution and print volume. You can only print so big and so fine before it gets impractical. The longest continuous print I have done was 30 hours. That was at 100 micron resolution which is the Ultimaker's "normal" mode. If I printed at 50 microns it would have taken over 2 days to print! That is a bit crazy! At that point it is probably better to slice up the object and have multiple printers working concurrently. One place to see "hobby" level 3d printers in action is at the Makerfaire. Makerbot, Ultimaker, Formlabs, and well as many other smaller manufactures are there and available to answer any questions. There is a Makerfaire in San Mateo, CA in mid May. Probably worth the visit if you absolutely have to see machines working live and in person. Right now I am trying to determine if the resolution of the Ultimaker is adequate to use to fabricate surgical guides for placement of dental implants in the maxilla and mandible. I have been using patient's DICOM files from scans then working them thru Osirix, Blender, and Meshmixer. It really is a work in progress. I just started another case I am going to try to work up this week. I know there are companies which provide this exact service, but I want to see if I can do the same using a $2,500 printer and open source software. Plus there is certain amount of fun involved when you figure things out on your own!
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