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  • Welcome to embodi3D Downloads! This is the largest and fastest growing library of 3D printable medical models generated from real medical scans on the Internet. A unique scientific resource, most of the material is free. Registered members can download, upload, and sell models. To convert your own medical scans to a 3D model, take a look at democratiz3D, our free and automated conversion service.

Extremity, Upper (Arm) Muscles

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Muscles of the upper extremity: shoulder, arm, forearm, hand

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    • Once I upload my CT scan to have an STL file and get the file I download it to my documents folder but can't find it.  I got an error message that said it couldn't be opened because it was .stl format.  Is it hidden somewhere? Dan    
    • You can check this tutorial https://www.embodi3d.com/democratiz3d-user-manual/#Quality
    • I wanted to know that, is there any size difference between the .stl file generated form CT scan and the actual size of the skull of the patient. at the conversion, is there any dimensional change could be happen in the software. 
    • It's amazing to see that i had the same problem and question. I usually avoid the Contact Z distance. Anyways, I got information from several places regarding any problem in 3d printing.
    • First of all, a lot of people in the "professional world" are using Ultimakers. And the Palette 2 is still not working with 2.85 filaments (and probably never will?)   The last few months I came across a new scenario for multi material printing. It is mixing PLA with PETG for supports. PLA and PETG don't bond to each other. So you can print your part with PLA and supports with PETG (or vice versa) and set the contact z distance to 0(!). It works very well. Supports are coming off easy and the interface layers look as good as if you were using soluble supports. Since you have to keep soluble filament in dry conditions it is much easier (and cheaper) to use PETG instead.    Setting up the Palette is very easy. Mosaic has some videos one can watch like this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqbMw_M07GM (and the two follow up ones).   As for my experience. The combination Prusa MK3 + Palette 2 is probably one of the most used one in the community and works very reliable (of course there is no 100% guarantee but lets say 98,5% of the time 😉) . And I always use and recommend Prusas.    Also I would recommend using this post processing tool for PrusaSlicer 2.0: https://github.com/tomvandeneede/p2pp for an Prusa+Palette combination.    I would also still strongly recommend the already mentioned DIY canvas hub guide. There is already an Octoprint beta version out for the new Raspberry 4 so chances are the guide might work with the new Raspberry 4. But I haven't tested it.
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